Automatic vs Manual

I am new to the diesel market and have decided to go with an early 2000 Dodge 2500, but I need some advice on whether to go manual or automatic. I plan to pull a fifth wheel and/or boat and I live in Montana so there are a few mountain between me and all of my planned destinations. Anyone out there have input and advice on the performance, longevity, etc. of manual vs. automatic. I hope to have this truck for a very long time.
THANKS!  

manual,  On the newest diesels i would go auto (I am) But the older dodge autos, I wince a little bit, I have an *** neighbor with a 00 ram 2500, THEY DONT EVEN TOW WITH IT, has had to have the tranny rebuilt once, then replaced the second time, and the new one has been rebuilt twice since it was put in in 03, (all with oem)

Manual I think is a much better choice, throw in a banks or any exhaust brake on top of that, some water meth and propane, go do some serious haulin  

watch out for the "53" blocks which were prone to cracking on the rear passenger side. Investigate before investing in that engine.The ID can be found on or near the driver side of the timing gear cover.  
Let the good coal roll
I thought I was wrong once but I was mistaken!!!

the NV5600 is built like a tank even weights 100-lb more than auto trans  
Let the good coal roll
I thought I was wrong once but I was mistaken!!!

MANUAL all the way... if you bound to go with the dodge. i dont blame you... dodges are awesome... but do NOT get the auto if your pullin... dodges auto's are really crappy cant handel wht the engine puts out... if you was gettin a ford or chevy i would recomend the auto because ford and chevy's tranmissions are really good.    but if its dodge i would definetly definetly lean to a manual... and beside the manuals have a few more poneys then the auto's  
were pissin up a rope guys!!!

Go manual. You should be aware that the 5 speeds have a nut that can back off and you'll loose 5th gear but there is a fix(up-dated nut) for this problem. The 5sp and early 6sp non HO (high output) use a 12 1/4 inch clutch and a 1.25 imput shaft. The 2000.5 and newer HO 6sp use a 13 inch clutch and a 1.375 imput shaft. South Bend Clutches sells a upgrade kit for the 12" 1.25 trucks. The 6sp is a big tranny it weighs in at 450lbs. I run a 2002 6sp with a South Bend clutch and it works great!  
2002 Dodge Ram 6 SPD Fass pump, afe cold air, mbrp 4" ss exhaust, 275hp RV injectors, edge ez, isspro gauges, South Bend clutch, track bar updated to 03-07 style, dss steering stabilizer system, 285 Cooper Discover

"If it doesn't have tit's a trigger or a throttle I'm pretty much not interested!"

right on!!!  
Let the good coal roll
I thought I was wrong once but I was mistaken!!!

Another vote for the manual. A big bonus with the manual trans is it's a lot easier to apply an exhaust brake (which I recommend 100% for anyone pulling in the hills, no matter how heavy they are). You can put an exhaust brake on an automatic trans, but you'll have to buy extra gizmos to control torque converter lock-up and internal line pressure, or the brake won't do much of anything.

Another plus for the manual trans is they are extremely robust. $800.00 (plus installation labor) for the South Bend clutch I'm running  has me set up to 550 rear wheel hp with stock pedal feel and driving manners. An automatic built to handle the same power will cost several thousand $$.  
2003 Dodge Ram 2500 Laramie 4x4. H.O. Cummins, 6spd manual trans, 4.10 gearing. Intake, Exhaust, Hot Juice, HTT HTB2 62/12/65, Jake Brake, 305-65R17 (33 x 12.50) Pro-Comp Extreme All Terrains, SBC Con O FE, Fuel Tank Vent Mod,  Various other gizmos.


I-6 Cummins guys are keepin' it straight. Those other boys swing both ways.