I bought a 1997 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 6.5 diesel two years ago. Within the first two months, it became hard to start. Soon afterward, it started cutting off while driving and not starting back up for 20 to 40 minutes. I took it to the local Chevrolet dealership and asked if they did engine work on diesels. They said they had a diesel mechanic. I left the truck. They replaced the fuel injector pump and some seals for $2,500.00. I don’t go there anymore because it turns out they did not have a diesel mechanic to work on my truck, but the truck ran fine until I had trouble starting at the end of last year. Replaced the starter – truck ran fine. Now, six months later, I’m having trouble starting. I was told that the batteries checked out fine but the alternator needed replacing. I had a new alternator put in three weeks ago, but no improvement. The truck is getting harder to start. I now expect to be disappointed when I turn the key. I’m trying not to drive it, but I’m self-employed and on many days the truck is a necessity. I’ve got to either get this fixed fast or look at getting another truck before I start getting stranded by the side of the road again.Does you guys think a PMD isolator will take care of this truck? I've looked at the one sold by Heath Diesel Power http://www.heathdiesel.com/I've also looked at the PDC/PMD Remote Package from http://www.duramax.bizhosting.com/My_Truck/pmd_cooler.htm If anybody can give me advice about what my truck needs and which PMD isolator is better, I could really use the help. Thanks.KWDieselThanks for any help and advice you can offer.
The best person to help is walt at SS Diesel.firstname.lastname@example.orgRead these: http://www.ssdieselsupply.com/testimonials.htmlWaltSSDiesel Supply977 Military RdKenmore, NY 14217ph 716-874-6900fax 716-874-6966www.ssdieselsupply.comJesus Loves you!!!
When you say your having trouble starting, do you mean turning the motor over?(Replaced the starter – truck ran fine) or does the motor turn over just fine but does not fire. If it turns over but will not fire it will most likely be the glow plugs. This is a relatively cheap and a do it yourself fix. If you can change a spark plug you can change a glow plug.
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we have a 93 model with around 330,000 miles and about twice a year it acts up starts cutting off at idle won't crank if it's hot sometimes cranks when it's cold or not. if this sounds like your problem. ther is a fuel pump located on the frame rail under the drivers seat almost. This pump runs off of an oil pressure switch at the rear of the intake manifold at the firewall. costs about thirty bucks, and youll' either have to have a special socket or cut one and lenghthen it to change the sensor. we've had that problem off and on but someone that doesn't know what to look for will never find it.
I got a 1998 6.5 about 6 months ago. for $1,000 had to replace the resistor in the PMD.(no problems sence)
I have a 1994 K2500 6.5TD vin-F for 9 years now and have experienced the following problems:If not protected from the engine heat, the PMD will go bad every 2 years or so.Isolating the PMD will solve this problem.Glow plugs gone bad; take a piece of wire and disconnect all glow plugs and hook-up the wire to the positive pole of the battery. Now hit the other end of the wire momentarely to the connection of the glow-plug. If the wire sparks, it's ok, if not it's bad and the glow plug must be replaced.Starter gone bad; this happens gradually and will be noticed when cold starting the motor will crank slow. Rebuild or replaceAlternator bad; battery light will lit on dash; repair or replace alternatorFuel transfer pump (under the driver's seat in the chassis) will not run; pump can be bad or oil pressure switch gone bad. GM intended the power of the pump running over the oil pressure switch would save the engine during low oil pressure. Unfortunately, the oil pressure switch fails prematurely and often. Replace the oil pressure switch or install a jumper wire from any 12V positive source going on when the ignition switch is on and you will hear the pump running before the engine is started. I prefer the permanent jumper because the oil pressure switch is hard to get by. Note: sometimes the fuse of the fuel pump goes bad...check this too.Battery poles not seating properly; this one is very tricky as it sometimes let you believe one of the batteries is bad but don't be misled. Take of the negative pole of the suspected (if you measure both batteries voltage at the +/- poles, you will see a small voltage difference) bad battery and start the engine. If the cranking speed stays low (or the same as before disconnecting the pole), connect it again and take of the other battey negative pole and start again. If the engine cranks slower, check the battery (both) condition and clean all the poles. If you have 2 good batteries, this procedure should solve the problem. If not, replace the battery that cranks the engine with the slowest speed. note: always disconnet the negative pole with this test.Air in fuel system; make a jumper to the fuel transfer pump and let it run with the water drain and air drain on top of the filter open. Take out the air and water and remove the jumper. If you installed a permanent jumper as described earlier, this procedure becomes easy as you only have to switch the ignition on to let the pump run.Last but not least; if the engine cranks fast and all the other problems above have been checked and will not start, you have lost compression or the fuel injection pump is bad. If you want to check if you've lost compression, remove the glow plugs and spray (use an oil can and 4-5 squirts will suffice) thick engine oil into the hole of the glow plugs. Cover the engine with a blanket and crank it momentarely (if you don't use a blanket oil will spray in the engine bay). Install the glow plugs and start the engine. If it fires, you have lost compression and need a rebuild. If you have replaced the pump, compression is ok, batteries are ok, starter cranks fast but the engine won't start, crack open (3/4 turn) the fuel line connection nut on any injector. If you don't see fuel coming out at the fuel line nut when cranking, the ECM (engine computer) is bad or you have a bad connection somewhere in the harness going to the injection pump. At this time you will need a scanning tool to find the problem.
The three things that would most likely cause your problems are the high pressure injecter pump, the fuel sending pump, and the PMD. My dad and I both have 6.5 turbo diesels. Mine is a '93 with 219,000 miles and my dad's is a '98 with 186,000. Between the two trucks we have seen this same kind of problem ususally one of these three pats is the cause. When you get it fixed though I think you'll find the truck isn't aas bad as everyone makes it out ot be. My grandpa owned my truck before me and he towed with it everyday of the work week for 9 years and never had any problems (he towed about 10,000lbs), it never stopped and the truck could do it for another 9 or more years.
TRY THE SIMPLE STUFF FIRST. By the way 97 is OBDII and the lift pump is run by the computer. So even if the oil pressure switch is bad your lift pump will run. Check glow plug first. If the glowsd check out, make sure the relay is working. After that you can start looking elsewere. If the truck starts hard but runs fine and does not have a stalling problem. You most likely do not have a PMD problem. Another important thing on these 6.5 is GROUNDS! they are critical to proper operation of the electronics. Check them ALL, be sure they are clean and tight.Even if they look good clean and tighten them. If you buy a PMD sTAY AWAY FROM DURAMAX.BUZHOSTING take my word on that one.
I had a '95 2500 with the 6.5l turbo. I had the exact same problem. It would run ok for a while then cut out as if someone reached over and turned the key off while driving. The problem was the PMD controller. I got a PMD controller from SSDIESELSUPPLY.COM. They recommended the PMD with heatsink. It mounted away from the original position and I never had that issue again. Good luck.
i have a 97 6.5 turbo diesel i need to know how to turn up the fuel and get some more boost to pull a trailer around can anyone help me email me at email@example.com
Where is the location of the map sensor on my 1997 6.5TD
the easies way is to turn your fuel pump located under the air intake of the engine . you wiil have to probably get a special wrench to slack the bolt's that hold it there . you turn it just a little bit it would be nice if you where to get a tech 2 computer to let you know where your at cause it don't take mutch the the pump will be out of whack and just waste fuel insted of helping you
thanks man for the info i just put the resistor in the signal wire of the map sensor and it helped my turbo out alot
Not sure if you got this sorted out yet.I tried that ssdiesel one and the PMD failed in short order. This has to be because that unit sits on the hot intake and just pulls engine heat in to it. Then got one from www.duramax.bizhosting.com its much better quality easier to install and been a few years now in the desert heat and not a glitch. Jim really knows his stuff!FWIW I talked to Walt at ssdiesel and John at Kennedy and Bill at Health, and all them did not know squat about these engines compare to Jim and he's been around longer them them too.I wish I had found them before getting taken by other guys. I see why they have their guys posting on boards badmouthing Jim because their stuff doesn't even come close.
i have a 97 chevy 3500 with this 6.5 litr engine only has 100k miles due to problems. It will shut down while driving, then restart after 15 minutes or so.Two years ago I paid 2900$ to have new injector pump installed that was only 8000 miles ago. I called local diesel repair shop recently and when i told them what engine I have... they said they were sorry. Is this thing worth messing with or shouldI just get rid of it. It should be getting up to 300k miles but its just sitting around now hard to start and I can't rely on it.