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94 ford-engine specs, upgrade tips, any problems to look for????

  
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94 ford-engine specs, upgrade tips, any problems to look for????

 
backwoodsboy916 backwoodsboy916
Enthusiast | Posts: 260 | Joined: 10/06
Posted: 12/06/07
09:39 AM

My 17 year old brother just bought a 1994 Ford F-250 with the diesel and 4 wheel drive with the 5 speed, and he doesnt know much about diesels, and most of my knowledge is about cummins engines, but im trying to find out the exact specs of the engine, i thik its the first year with the turbo but im not sure. Im also interested in and upgrades that are good, especially when towing? What about things to look out for, even the stoutest of engines have things that are more common to give you problems, what should i look for? Any info would be great seein as im the one who has to keep this thing runnin, and id like to know what to look out for.  
2005 Dodge Ram 3500 4 Door 4Wd Longbed 6SPD manual, Silverline 4 inch exhaust,ATS Performance Exhaust Manifold, K&N Intake,CFM Intake Manifold, Edge Juice w/Attitude, Recon Smoked Roof and Fender Lights, 285/70/17 Firestone M/Ts,  MUCH MUCH MORE to come, one day...when im not so BROKE.....


Member: Blowin Smoke Gang

bluetech151 bluetech151
Guru | Posts: 1304 | Joined: 06/07
Posted: 12/06/07
05:19 PM

IDI or DI  
Diesel Power: It'll eat up anything in its path and spit out pure charcoal.

backwoodsboy916 backwoodsboy916
Enthusiast | Posts: 260 | Joined: 10/06
Posted: 12/06/07
06:53 PM

IDI or DI? Shoot...i dont know. How can i tell? Its a 94 and it's turbocharged, thats all i know. What do i need to look for to be able to tell? Like i said, i might have grown up a ford fan, but im a cumins man...i got a lot of respect for a ford(if its 03 or older) but my preference and all my knowledge is about cummins.  
2005 Dodge Ram 3500 4 Door 4Wd Longbed 6SPD manual, Silverline 4 inch exhaust,ATS Performance Exhaust Manifold, K&N Intake,CFM Intake Manifold, Edge Juice w/Attitude, Recon Smoked Roof and Fender Lights, 285/70/17 Firestone M/Ts,  MUCH MUCH MORE to come, one day...when im not so BROKE.....


Member: Blowin Smoke Gang

bluetech151 bluetech151
Guru | Posts: 1304 | Joined: 06/07
Posted: 12/06/07
07:53 PM

when you pop the hood on a IDI the injector are right on top if you don't see them its a DI

oh and does it say PowerStoke on the side  
Diesel Power: It'll eat up anything in its path and spit out pure charcoal.

BCRAM BCRAM
Enthusiast | Posts: 672 | Joined: 11/06
Posted: 12/06/07
11:59 PM

What motor do you have? Late 1993 to 1994 came with the idi(indirect injection) factory turbo. The 1994.5 came with the "new" di (direct injection) Power Stroke. Lets assume you have the "first year" this is a great motor I had two of them. The problems are, first they suck when it comes to power but this can be fixed. ATS makes a great and affordable upgrade it will add about 100 hp and give you better mpg. The nice thing about this kit is it's the way this motor was originally built since ATS was the turbo designer but Ford thought it had to much power so they made them change it. Banks also makes a kit but my brother inlaw had one and I always kicked his butt till he sold it and bought the ATS. You always want to run a fuel lubricant like Howes it will make the injector pump last alot longer. The glow plug under the turbo always seems to burn out and of course it's the hardest to get at. Glow plug timers and starters are common re/re projects also the O rings on the injectors get dried out and hard and will tend to leak but it's a cheap and easy fix. The factory clutch and flywheel is a dual mass system which sucks when it comes to replacing it, very expensive so most people go to a single mass. The idi Factory Turbo is a strong reliable motor that will out last the truck.  
2002 Dodge Ram 6 SPD Fass pump, afe cold air, mbrp 4" ss exhaust, 275hp RV injectors, edge ez, isspro gauges, South Bend clutch, track bar updated to 03-07 style, dss steering stabilizer system, 285 Cooper Discover

"If it doesn't have tit's a trigger or a throttle I'm pretty much not interested!"

06cumminspower 06cumminspower
Enthusiast | Posts: 334 | Joined: 03/07
Posted: 12/09/07
09:33 AM

if it has metal lines going to injectors it's a idi and if all you see is the big filter bowl on top w/ no high pressure pump it is a powerstroke. and if it is a powerstroke and it still has the engine cover on it it will say "direct iinjection turbo diesel" right on top.  

backwoodsboy916 backwoodsboy916
Enthusiast | Posts: 260 | Joined: 10/06
Posted: 12/10/07
05:22 PM

Im pretty sure now that its not a powerstroke, it has metal lines and doesnt say powerstroke anywhere. What kinda upgrades are there for this engine?  
2005 Dodge Ram 3500 4 Door 4Wd Longbed 6SPD manual, Silverline 4 inch exhaust,ATS Performance Exhaust Manifold, K&N Intake,CFM Intake Manifold, Edge Juice w/Attitude, Recon Smoked Roof and Fender Lights, 285/70/17 Firestone M/Ts,  MUCH MUCH MORE to come, one day...when im not so BROKE.....


Member: Blowin Smoke Gang

06cumminspower 06cumminspower
Enthusiast | Posts: 334 | Joined: 03/07
Posted: 12/10/07
06:18 PM

turn the pump up for more fuel is always your most rewarding upgrade and if your pocket allows you an aftermarket turbo means a lot on those ole idi's.

here are some directions on how to turn the fuel up on your idi from neverenufhp's website www.freewebs.com/nevrenufhp/index.htm
                   
                       Ford/ IH 6.9 & 7.3 IDI

Lots of guys have at one time or another wanted to know how to adjust their Stanadyne DB2 fuel injection pump on an idi 6.9 or 7.3 diesel engine. It isn't really difficult to do, but I recommend not messing with the stock setting unless you have a pyrometer. It doesn't take much to overfuel a stock naturally aspirated engine, often with disastrous results.
Safety as always is important. On that note, probably the first thing one should do would be to disconnect the batteries, to ensure there is no power to the pump, or at least remove the wires so that if/when you rotate the engine, it will not start. The adjustment screw lives within the pump, but can be accessed through a little door on the passenger side of the pump. It is triangular in shape, and is held in place with 2 small bolts, and a gasket underneath to seal it. It looks like this.You will want to have either a shallow dish or a bunch of rags under the pump when you remove the plate, as about a pint of diesel fuel will spill when the plate comes off. The next thing to do is to turn the engine to align the adjustment screw internally. This can be done one of two ways that I know of. 1. You must put a large socket (15/16'ths) on the bolt on the front of the crank pulley. Rotate the engine till the timing mark on the vibration damper is at about the 1 o'clock position as seen from the front of the engine. This should line up the insides of the pump so that the adjustment screw will appear in the opening behind where the cover plate was on the pump. Since the crank turns twice for each one rotation of the injection pump however, you may get the timing mark to the 1 o'clock position and still not be able to see the adjustment screw inside the pump. It would look like this. (A small dental type mirror may help to see inside the pump here because of the angles etc)... If you look in and cannot see the adjustment allen screw, you must rotate the engine 360 deg. or one full rotation clockwise, till the mark again lines up at about the 1 o'clock position, and then you should be able to see the screw, and it should look like this. The other way to align the pump, is to take the cover off of the front of the injection pump cover housing. Inside this is the bolts that hold the injection pump timing gear onto the pump. There is also an alignment dowel. If you rotate the engine till this alignment dowel is at exactly the 12 o'clock position, then the adjustment screw will be visible through the opening behind the cover plate. Here's a pic of the opening and the dowel, but with the gear-to-pump bolts removed, and the dowel is at the 4 o'clock position instead of the 12 o'clock. Ok, now, all that is required is to get a good quality allen wrench which fits the adjustment screw(5/32) in size. The adjustment screw has locking threads, so make sure you have a good wrench, 'cause you don't want to damage this one or drop little bits of metal shavings inside your pump. To increase the fuel setting, it is generally recommended to go in small increments. Usually 60 deg. rotation, which is about the same as turning the wrench one flat, or 1/6'th of a turn. Clockwise will increase the fuel setting, counterclockwise will decrease the fuel setting. Put the cover plate back on, being careful not to overtighten the little bolts, replace the wires on the pump, and go for a run to see how it goes. Don't forget to watch that pyrometer!! Good luck with it.  

backwoodsboy916 backwoodsboy916
Enthusiast | Posts: 260 | Joined: 10/06
Posted: 12/10/07
07:13 PM

How good is the stock turbo on his truck, can it handle a little more fuel if i turn the pump up a little bit? What kind of air intakes are available? How much is an aftermarket turbo for that truck and who makes em'?  
2005 Dodge Ram 3500 4 Door 4Wd Longbed 6SPD manual, Silverline 4 inch exhaust,ATS Performance Exhaust Manifold, K&N Intake,CFM Intake Manifold, Edge Juice w/Attitude, Recon Smoked Roof and Fender Lights, 285/70/17 Firestone M/Ts,  MUCH MUCH MORE to come, one day...when im not so BROKE.....


Member: Blowin Smoke Gang

BCRAM BCRAM
Enthusiast | Posts: 672 | Joined: 11/06
Posted: 12/11/07
05:08 PM

Read my post on " Power Parts for the IDI diesels?" The turbo on these trucks is a wastgate so the boost is adjustable and is set from the factory at 3psi( yes that's three psi impressive isn't it). There is a threaded rod on your actuator, turn the rod in (shorten) to increase boost. Now I'll give you a heads up Ford did not want you to be able to do this so they staked the threads. DON'T try to force it past the stake you will break it, I have see it done many times and it's not a cheap item to buy from Ford. You have to take it apart (it will turn out but not in) and run a die over it and you'll be all good. Adjust the boost to 8psi, I know the temptation is there to go more, but you'll go better at 8psi than you will at 10psi. If you follow my advice on " Power Parts for the IDI diesels?" and get the up graded turbo housing, elbow and exhaust you can go up to 16-18psi. Even if you turn up the pump,boost and get a big mandrel bend exhaust it won't go anywhere near as good as a truck with the upgraded housing and elbow, I know because I've been there and done that.  
2002 Dodge Ram 6 SPD Fass pump, afe cold air, mbrp 4" ss exhaust, 275hp RV injectors, edge ez, isspro gauges, South Bend clutch, track bar updated to 03-07 style, dss steering stabilizer system, 285 Cooper Discover

"If it doesn't have tit's a trigger or a throttle I'm pretty much not interested!"

dallyleec dallyleec
New User | Posts: 2 | Joined: 01/08
Posted: 01/15/08
05:31 AM

what would it do if you took the wastegate off  

sootman73 sootman73
New User | Posts: 9 | Joined: 02/08
Posted: 02/14/08
08:21 PM

i have had my wastegate unhooked for a long time now. in fact i put a hose barb in the connecting hose and run my boost gauage off of it.  my fuel pump is turned up to the max and i have the factory turbo. i never see excessive exhaust gas temperatures and run about 12-13 psi boost. the safe acceptable limit with stock head bolts and head gaskets is 14-15 psi. dont push this as you will blow a head gasket. the motor is very reliable as i have been constantly fixing my truck around it but haven't touched the motor except for the glow plugs.

these motors are made for reliability and durability. they are not power houses like the cummins, powerstrokes, or duramax's. they will however walk all over the comparable gm 6.2l and 6.5l diesels. i know first hand as i can waste my friends gm's.

be sure to get a boost gauge, a pyrometer, and a tranny temp gauge(auto) before modifying the motor for power. replace the downpipe with a 3in piece that any shop can custom make(tell them to bend the firewall as necessary) for cheap. follow that with a 4in exhuast(style of your choosing whether it be stacks or normal types). get a good air filter as the 94 had pretty good cold air systems stock. keep egts below 1250/1050 sustained and boost in check as mentioned above.

any other questions dont be afraid to ask. been through this before.  
94' F250 7.3L turbo diesel extended cab 4wd IP maxxed out, Autometer Phanton II pyro and boost on a-pillar, straight piped, E40D auto and 3:55 gearing.
SOON: stage 1 injectors, high performance transmission, and 5in flapper stacks!
SOMEDAY: 4in lift with 37's and maybe twins
once hauled two gravity wagons with beans. Rig weighed in at 30,280#! and the only thing slowin me down was the bad wagon wheels!(and snow) it chugged with pride right up the snow covered ramp where a suburban with one wagon needed a tr