Hey all, I am trying to figure out how these fuel plates / torque plates work and how. First what is the actual name torque of fuel? Second, what do the # designations mean? and lastly, which plate would give me good power gains while not killing my towing capability (I only tow jet ski's and bikes my dad tows the camper). Thanks for any info! If there is reading material available on the subject ill be happy to read it on my own if I can get pointed in the right direction. THANKS!

-Dan  

Anybody?  

If anyone would know, tech editor Jason Sands probably would. Maybe he'll hop on here and comment.  

Let me do some checking!  

Basically, a fuel plate is a stop that fits inside the injection pump that controls the amount of fuel that is given to the injectors.  A stock fuel plate will have a notch in it at some point so as boost and rpm rise, it will suddenly deliver a lot more fuel.  You can also slide the stock plate forward for more power, or get an aftermarket one.  The most common ones that people use seem to be a #10, a #0 or a #100 plate.  A #0 plate is full fuel all the time, even with no or low boost, so you have to "drive with your right foot" a #10 plate starts out slow, then ramps up to full fuel, then cuts back fuel a little at wide open throttle to save egts.  A #100 plate starts like a #10, and ends up like a #0.  There are also other numbers, 4,5,6, etc, which all adjust the fueling.  The lower the number, generally the more aggressive the plate is, and will let your pump put out more fuel, which means more power if you have the air to burn it.  Lastly, you can just take the plate out if you want, but that may be hard on the pump.  I would check out www.tstproducts.com and do a search for "fuel plate" if you need more info.  

Jason to the rescue!    I knew he'd find this thread eventually. Thanks Jason!  

If I picture is worth a thousand words, how much is a video worth?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=orRh9s5aavU

I wouldn't watch it unless you actually will be installing a fuel plate, it's 10 minutes long    

Thanks so much!! WAY more informative than anything ive found. I knew there was a reason i buy the mag and frequent the forums  

I was told about the fuel plate by another guy, I think I'm going to go with the #11 I think it was. It was the highest you can get without tranny upgrades. It gave an extra 40hp I think, but dont hold me to that. I think with that and adjusting my P7100, I will be dumping a lot of fuel to it, that'll help with hp.  

What Jason said is mostly true, but you must remember the effects of the AFC. You will never build enough boost to have the AFC arm fully retracted in the rpm range that the #100 and #10 have there "lip". This means a #0 is identical to a #100 in effect. The "lip" then becomes mostly to keep the governor arm from sliding under the plate.  

True.  Good 1st post  With my 97 I had a #5 plate, which I learned from talking to other people could result in the governor arm slipping under it, especially since I had the 3kgsk.  If that does happen, you just have to re-adjust the plate, but until you do you'll be rolling black smoke and making like 10psi of boost    

The #5 is one of the plates that are bad about that. Some people also forget to adjust the hieght of the governor arm to match the specific curves of the plate profile that they run.  

So this is more than likely a shop job then?  

just take the plate out and unscrew the big allen head and turn the star wheel all the way out so the spring is loose. then mess with the air fuel ratio screw. you will be roasten trannys in a few hours. tons of smoke and way way more power. been their done that haha. have fun with convertables and ricers with their windows down.  

o ya plug the turbo for more air.  wastegates are overrated!