I have a 1994 IDI factory turbo 4X4 Manual transmission. Three days ago I parked my truck everything was normal, yesterday it will not start just cranks, no popping,no smoke, no trying to start, nothing but cranking over and over and over. I live in central CA so cold weather is not the problem (100 degres) after reading other threads most advice was a bad relay/glow plug controller, so i replaced both also replaced fuel filter and air filter I filled the filter with diesel. Still nothing but cranking, won't start, pop, snort, or anything. Today I pushed in the valve on top of fuel filter cranked it and fuel came out, so then I installed clear lines from filter to fuel rail(grey lines it is IDI) and from fuel rail to injector pump. Iused longer lines with a loop in them. Cranked it over fuel came into both lines but never filled them up. There are sites for adjusting injector pump but they state it is for preformance. Mine is not preforming at all. please do not give me advice like Dump your IDI and get a powerstroke.This is my truck and I love it, and do not have the money. Any advice on adjusting, or tweaking, or repairs would be nice. I spent all my money on the selonid and controller. Thanks
I checked all glow plugs with an ohm meter & checked wiring harness and gp connectors with a DC meter. harness & connegtors worked fine, on three connectors the plastic crumbled! I will heat shrink tubing on them. one gp was bad #5 cylinder, would one gp cause no start? jumped injection pump clicks on & off. Today I am doing a pressure & flow test, and will check all fuel lines under truck. One return cap is a little oily/dusty might be an air problem, but the filter stays full! so wouldn't that be hard starting, not no start. both batteries are fully charged. I do not understand why it worked fine then nothing, Is there anything else that is electronic that controls the engine? Thanks Steve
did a flow & pressure check. Removed the top front spade from injector pump, removed valve core, installed tubing into a measuring cup. Pumped out 1/2cup in 10 sec.So passed, pressure test 4lbs low end of the specs. I know you can turn up your pump, has anyone done this? Still pondering cracking the hard lines at the injectors, right now i have no leaks
Your post seemed a little lonely so heres my two cents, ok so probly more like one cent,lol. Any way, im not an expert by any means, especially of powerstrokes, but i personally would check and see how much electronics your truck has. I had a 99 dodge and i had one sensor go bad and it jacked up some of the other sensors and left me with a gimp truck. It crnked but ran like *** shifted bad, fueled up at the wrong times, and my gauges all went wacky, it even screwed with my superchip and made it back the fuel down like the egts where to high when they werent and thats bad trying to climb a hill with a 30 foot cattle trailer. I know you have a completely different problem but id check into it anyway. Keep us posted, you got me interested and good luck.
2005 Dodge Ram 3500 4 Door 4Wd Longbed 6SPD manual, Silverline 4 inch exhaust,ATS Performance Exhaust Manifold, K&N Intake,CFM Intake Manifold, Edge Juice w/Attitude, Recon Smoked Roof and Fender Lights, 285/70/17 Firestone M/Ts, MUCH MUCH MORE to come, one day...when im not so BROKE.....Member: Blowin Smoke Gang
The injection pumps on these idi trucks run at low pressure compared to the newer direct injection trucks. If the IP does not push 750psi it will not trigger the injectors...and your not going anywhere. So you might have a good lift pump pressure (it looks like a old school small block GM fuel pump) and you might have fuel at the injectors if you crack the lines but you may not have enough line pressure to trigger the injectors. How old is your Stanadyne injection pump? This new ultra low sulfur diesel is pretty hard on rotary pumps. Don't forget injectors wear out or can get clogged as well.
2002 Dodge Ram 6 SPD Fass pump, afe cold air, mbrp 4" ss exhaust, 275hp RV injectors, edge ez, isspro gauges, South Bend clutch, track bar updated to 03-07 style, dss steering stabilizer system, 285 Cooper Discover"If it doesn't have tit's a trigger or a throttle I'm pretty much not interested!"
The no-start sounds like a lack of fuel to the fuel injectors. Start by cracking loose the fuel line fittings at the injectors. May have a leaking check valve that is supposed to stop the fuel in the pump from draining back into the tank. When you crack the lines, it will let out any air in the system and allow the fuel back into the engine. !!!!What Ever You Do: DO NOT USE ETHER!YOU WILL BLOW THE MOTOR!!!
I cracked the lines at the injectors and no fuel, i checked again the fuel shutoff (FSS) jumped it and turned on key click click, back one also. So I removed it. Big T shaped crack in it. Anybody worked on the FSS? I will try to get a new one. Are there any fuel diagrams for IDI 7.3 on the web?
i had the same problem with my 97 powerstroke..it was the came sensor...check with ford...after i replaced it twice i got a recall for the came sensor...
sorry i said came sensor its the cam sensor
What diagram are you looking for? I can get some from Navistar. Mostly parts lists, but some diagnostics and diagrams.
Sorry about the Ether thing: have seen too many morons try hose the engine in ether to start a stubborn engine only to have the glow plugs light the Ether and turn the air filter into a rocket or blow the heads clean off the block. It cannot be used on any engine having glow plugs(Powerstrokes, Duramaxes)or grid intake heaters (Cummins).
sorry guy ..ether will not blow the engine.i use it on my 93 and my 96..only as a last resort BUT ..a shot in the air intack then crank it over will tell you if it starts and stutters and shuts down ..you are not getting fuel ..simpelor it may fire up and clear itself out ..I know because my 96 was supposed to have a blown head gasket ..and they had started to pull it apart..on checking it out i found the computer was full of water ..i dont know how or why ..a new brain box .and no life so ether in the torbo ...several shots woke her up ..now turn on watch the glow lite go out no gas an it fires and runs fine..it ain't luck just comman sence..a shot will wake it up some times yah gotta spray to find out ..air fuel and compression is all you need to run diesel
Old truck running fast is more fun the a new truck runnin' slow
Received New return hoses & plastic caps. I have a crossover hose (2 caps have a tee connector) New ones are 4ea straight conn. & 4ea elbow conn. no tee conn. mine are the new style with the conn. offset the plastic cap, not through the middle.Should I use my two old caps w/ the tee conn. or use all new without the crossover, what is the difference?
Replaced the FSS, put everything back together and VROOOOM! Checking now for any leaks. Will let her sit over night and see what happenstomorrow. No start! Checked for air leaks and did not find any, removed the top cover from the IP, when the solenoid clicks in (run position) the metering valve will not open unless you apply full throttle. Then it opens verry slowly, so then I assembled everything turned the key and pushed the pedal all the way down. It started at full throttle, when I took my foot off the gas it died. I started her again this time I eased the RPMs down and the ol 7.3 idled right down. But is the slow metering valve going to cause further problems, is there something I can do to speed up or free up the valve?
Every time I start it I have to push the pedal to the floor, then ease off the throttle until it hits the high idle solenoid (unless the engine is hot)and then everything seems ok. Driving test, the truck has a 5 speed manual trans. accelerates fine, no smoke, if driving and i depress the clutch she dies! If you take your foot off the pedal and let her slow down then depress clutch everything is ok. I have no idea what is going on here!