I have the above with the 6.5 Deisal engine, not the Duramax. While driving normally it just shut down and now I have no glow plug light or any type of dash lights as all vehicles have when you switch the key on. Batteries are new, connections are clean, starter turns over great and have all headlights, parking lights etc as well as ac blower, radio and so on. It`s like I`ve lost electrical power to the part of the system that runs the engine. I`ve checked fuses, fusible links, tested with volt meter and still lost on what the problem is. Any advice? A long time ago (and this may have nothing to do with this problem)it shut down and I found that the side post connections on the batteries had got loose. Once tightened it started fine. This doesn`t appear to be the issue now. Any guidance would be appreciated. Thanks
I think someone else on here had a similar issue, and said it was the PMD over-heating. There's a relocation kit you can get for it, I believe.
Thanks, i`m still researching the problem. But my first question is: Why no illuminated dash lights come on when key is switched on? They are supposed to come on until engine starts . This leads me to believe I have an electrical issue where part of the system is not energizing all the components to make it run.
Also, if it makes any difference, when the engine started stumbling before complete shut down, the alternator gauge was bouncing up and down. Also i have no turn signals when key is switched on now.
Update: Still no start condition, still checking grounds and connections, next move to see if the computer is properly grounded. Thanks alot for the input.
I have a simular problem with engine just stopping.1997 K3500 crew cab long bed 6.5 Ussually a minute after starting it it will stop , sometimes it will start back up sometimes it will not start at all for several days. I have power to lights and dash though. I will tell you what I have done so far to try and cure the problem but nothing has worked as of yet. Things I have done so far.Changed PMD (Magnet moduel on side of injector pump) swaped fuel calibration chip in PMD harnes conection, fuel shut off solinoid,changed fuel filter, changed fuel system relay, engine system relay, glow plug relay, glow plugs and have even pulled the wire harness out and checked it for continuity and horts. Next I will try lift pump even though it is suppling suficient fuel, new motor to chase grounds (already checked the ones currently on it) drop starter and check wire conections, replace crank position sensor. Anyone else have any ideas?
Thanks, I am slowly going over wiring and grounds. The side post battery cable set up is a culprit. These rock back and forth and sideposts should have never ever been put on any vehicle much less a diesal due to vibration. Mine has shut off in the past due to this and a little cleaning an or tightening always got me going again. Now I wonder if the internal cables beneath the insulation are bad or eaten up inside with corrosion. I`ve seen that happen on other vehicles. A new set of dual battery cables and top post batteries to match is not a bad idea.
Talked with another owner of an older 6.5 today said to check oil pressure switch so that is my next thing to check beforre replacing lift pump.
Still no start or lights on dash. haven`t had alot of time to work on it . but cked most all the grounds and almost sure power isn`t getting thru whole system.
I think I have narowed my problem down since I have changed almost everything. I think my problem is a short between the main engine harness and the lift pump down on the frame rail or internal short in the lift pump. If you are still not getting power to the dash lights and indicator lamps check the power to the dash harness where it comes through the floorboard. you can take the through wall mount apart by removing 1 or 2 screws or use a continuity tester from the hot lead to ground to see if you have power there, if not then trace it back to find the bad spot. the other place to check is to the ignition switch and from the ignition switch. it will be the largest red wire. another place to check this way is the hot wire going to the computer. there is a plug conection in the harness to the computer at the computer. the computers are generaly behing the glove box, it will be a red and black pair plug conection and of larger size than the others there. ever get pizzed enough to gab a hand full of wires and shake them and then the darn thing start?
Under the intake manifold is a fuel sensor, if this is bad it will shut the engine off while it is running.
I really hope your still out there and reading this.last night the very same thing in the very same kind of truck happened to me and i really need to know how you resolved it. i realize this thread is 7 or so years old but if anyone remembers this please help me out
Its really important to nail down specific conditions. If your truck just shuts off cold while you are driving then starts back up after a few minutes, I'd venture a guess that a PMD is going out. But if there is a stumble or hesitation when it shuts off, then the fuel delivery could be the problem. The two components of that scenario will be the pressure switch which feeds the electric fuel pump (after you finish cranking)or the pump itself. If there is a problem at startup there can be a problem at the battery posts, specifically at the point the two cables meet under the positive post. If the pmd is the problem, I have had very good luck with the remote mounted pmd I got from Heath but there are plenty out there to choose from. Google remotely mounted pmd and you will get a plethora of options. When mine went out, I just installed the new one and plugged it in and havent had a problem since.
Semi retired backup power technician.