im running 275 75 r16 on my cummins. i have no axel work but alot of transmission work. i no eventually with 1100 fts lbs that my rear end will go out. my is two wheel peel so i just go for the power not the size. expense is not that bad like marineone said, if your doing it yourself. if you know what your doing, it takes no time, if you dont, its a learning experience. ive had to learn thing the wrong way. like installing a shift kit that blew my valve body. i eventually bulletproofed the entire trans w billet input output shafts  

Read this! It will answer alot of your questions.

http://www.dieselram.com/reviews/properorder.htm  

hey sorry i have not been on in a bit but to answer some questions. I went taller than stock 1 size. I pull my 30ft 4 horse with living quarters. And after a few hauls my truck started losing power.So I started looking into chips for extra power. I like the smokin trucks and all the badass tech items for the cummins. But I just need more power. I live in Florida so the hills here are small we are buying property in Tenn, and the hills are bigger there. Can i get away with just a chip, new air filter/intake, and some gauges. it is going to be used when pulling not a everyday thing  

you can get away with a chip and new intake. GAUGES ARE A MUST!!!!! if your going to be pulling a a 30ft trailer w quarters, you might want to look into some transmission work. my recommendation, billet everything, all three shaft, plus billet torque convertor. if you put money into chips etc, it will all go to waste it you blow you tranny. do it right the first time, dont be like me, lol. if you put it off, it will come back and bite cha! Roll Coal!  

ok putting in my orders, what guages are a must and is there a pillar for our truck  

trans temp if its an auto, egt is a must on any diesel truck, and boost.  

I like the ISSPRO gauges since they look like the stock Dodge dash on the '03 and newer, but just look and see what's out there and what you like.  Since you've running an auto, you'll need gauges for pyro temp, boost, and tranny temp.  You can connect the gauges after you put the sensors for them in.

Next, you're going to need to get the TC and VB done just because you're towing that huge trailer, so order a deeper transmission pan that's drilled and tapped for a temp sensor.  When you put the new pan on, get the TC/VB work done, get a fluid and filter swap, and have them screw in the temp sensor and hook it up.

After that, get the CFM manifold and AEM Brute Force HD intake and dry air filter.  This is an easy install and is a great afternoon project.  You can also do the pyro temp sensor and boost sensor since you'll need a cold engine to do most of this work.

Then you can add the Snow water-meth setup and the Smarty should be the last thing you add .... or add it after you get the tranny work done.  There's no need for you to shell out that kind of cash to replace it.



Kris  

Well first of alll, How big of an increase in power are you looking for? Comparable to a new diesel? or do you want more? It's better to have your goal in mind when you start and save yourself buying a lot of parts again. For towing about 400-450 is probably all the power you want. Feel free to exceed that if you want more power to play around with.

 For the most part the lists above are ok but a little exaggerated. A good intake and exhaust yes. Upgraded tranny yes. Though you don't need billet shafts for 400-450 Hp. A good TC and VB will go a long ways. If your mechanically inclined check out levelten.com they offer clutch kits that you can install yourself. Or just buy a built tranny from Georend, Suncoast, DTT...ect. They all have their supporters and I don't think you can go wrong with any of them. But whoever you buy from CALL THEM and tell them what you use the truck for how much hp you want to make. They will give you the best recomendations.

 Since you have a 24v I would also highly recommend a Fuel pressure gauge. Make sure you have a good lift pump. A FASS,Airdog, Walbro...ECT. It doesn't really matter what you get just get a good one. I have an Airtex that is a stock replacement from Carquest. On a stock or slightly modded truck it works fine but I don't think it supplies enough fuel pressure once you start really modding it.
 For fuel increases I'd say either an Edge juice W/Attitude or a Quadzilla Adrenaline W/ Pulse. Both of these include all the guages you'll need except for Fuel pressure. I'd also get injectors. Probably 100 Horse. Who you go with is up to you.
 For turbos, I'd find an hx-35 off a manual trans truck. That will help. Then you can run a twins setup using either an s300 or s400 under the hx-35. Throw in a set of head studs and your off to the races.
 Or you can go the single route skip the hx-35 and go to a BD super B which would be a pretty good choice for towing.

 If all your looking for is a mild increase I'd recommend Bosch RV275(sometimes called Bosch 300's) and an hx-35. That will bring you to about 300hp. However its potential is somewhat limited after that.

I should mention the above is staying on the conservative side. If you want to go wild then thats up to you.  

Shaking my head ......

Pulling a 30 foot horse trailer through mountain passes with substantial power upgrades to his engine ..... and you're saying no to billet shafts for the tranny?

The '02 is a 235hp engine and he's putting more than normal stress on the auto slushbox.  Any horespower upgrades he does will also increase his torque, which in reality is what kills the the automatics in Dodges.

I'm for billet shafts on this setup, just so he's not sitting on a mountain pass with transmission parts and fluid scattered on the road behind him.




Kris  

uh-huh. HE didn't say substantial power upgrades. HE didn't say anything about how much power he wanted to make. If all he wanted was to be comparable to a newer truck which is 300-350 HP why go with billet shafts? Overkill. I may be a bit off in my assesment that 400-450 didn't need billet shafts, but that is also why I stressed the fact that he needs to talk to whoever he is buying his tranny from. The guys who live and breathe dodge auto's will be able to give him much better advice than any of us.
It's nice that your so willing to spend his money when you have no idea what he wants out of his truck. All we know is "more power" which covers quite a broad area. I agree that going full billet will help with peace of mind but it could quite frankly be bringing a napalm to rid your house of rats. A little overkill.
 Maybe it would be prudent to see what he wants out of his truck before we give him suggestions on what he should do to it. Suppose?  

Let me explain my logic ....

He's got an '02 Cummins which means its rated for around 235hp.  If you want to bring it up to a newer diesel engine's power rating you're increasing the power output by 40%.

Doing the math, 40% of 235hp is 94hp, which would put him at 329hp.

Now since we have a power increase of 40% in horsepower, we can also assume a 40% increase in torque, although normally it will be much more.  This is actually on the low side since any horsepower gains are eclipsed by the amount of torque these engine put out.  The '02 Cummins should be putting out around 460 (standard output) to 500 (high output) ft/lbs of torque and if we increase horsepower by 40%, lets increase torque by the same value, even though we all are aware it will be more.

40% of 460 is 184, or approximately 644 ft/lbs of torque.  40% of 500 is 200, so we can safely assume his new torque will now sit somewhere between 644 ft/lbs and 700 ft/lbs.  Under normal conditions this will eat an automatic tranny.  Now we add a 30 foot horse trailer with a load and we now have a recipe for disaster.

Even if he were to get only a 20% increase in torque we're still looking at around 552 ft/lbs of torque on a 47RE transmission.

I'm really not trying to argue the point with you, but making sure he doesn't end up along the roadside trying to take care of himself, his family, and his horses.



Kris  

i like marineones thinking, makes alot of good points. but kazairl makes a good one too, talk to the tranny guys that know these things inside and out.  

hey guys thanks for all the input. I am sorry for not stating how much HP I was looking to get. I kinda figured if I did not say I wanted to shoot the rubber off my tires so it will hit yalls door then maybe yall would went to the lighter side. Last trip I was going up hill with just the trailer and top speed was like 40 to 45mph. I hate being the slow driver we all cuss. I was looking for just enough to get me at least min speed limit. I understand the weight and pulling power and how crappy the stock slushbox is. I was lQQkinf for a few bolt on ideas. After reading many many post I know I need a better tranny. Maybe i can grab one off an duce 1/2 it will hold lol  

Keep in mind this is all personal opinion.

For what you want I would chose a good programmer (Edge, Quadzilla), get rid of your stock turbo and go with a hx-35 off a manual truck. These can be had for pretty cheap. It will support about 300-350 HP. Then if you want you can upgrade it to a Hx 40/35 hybrid for about $300. That will support about 400hp. as will a BD super B. If you want to go still higher, an Industrial Injection  Phat Shaft 62 0r 64 could put you closer to 500 hp.

Remember, A new stock truck is only 350 HP or so. I don't know how a new truck would pull the hills your talking about but it will be an improvement.

For your slushbox definetly a TC and VB. but that also depends on what you going to be making for power. Then I would throw in some 100 hp injectors. With some of the better turbos listed above and a good programmer and good transmission, you should be making 400-450 horse with out having to worry about head gaskets. Though head studs will be next on the list if you decide on much more power. The stock gasket seems to be pretty reliable below 45-50 psi of boost but poo happens.  

Kazairl wrote:

For your slushbox definetly a TC and VB. but that also depends on what you going to be making for power.


Are you serious?  Power upgrades or not, he *needs* to install a better TC and get the VB job done simply because he's towing a 30 foot horse trailer.  Honestly it needs to be the first thing to do on the list of upgrades.

You stating that "it depends on the amount of power he wants to make" is rather foolish and could cost him thousands for repairs and hundreds more for a huge towing bill.

You're also recommending upgrades upwards of 400hp, in effect doubling his stock output, without getting head studs done and not getting the head/engine fire ringed.

I would rather err on the side of seeing someone spending a little more to make sure they've got a setup that gives them what they need without breaking the bank or being stranded on some mountain road somewhere.

Personally I can't in good conscience give advice like that.



Kris