Hey Jason what happened to the 300 cheap diesel project

Hey I hate to bother you with this, but perhaps you can point me in the right direction. I set up my reader's ride, and uploaded photos, but I can't find/view them anywhere. Little help    

In response to the more important matter, I may have another option. I talked with my boss (also an engineer) a few minutes ago about the concept of allowing the cooling fluid to boil off and then recondense and compress it back into the system. He made a good point that there is a very high heat of evaporation that occurs in boiling the water. To recondense that fluid we would need a huge condensor that would be very bulky and inefficient. He proposed just having a reservoir tank with water in it, and allowing it to boil off to the atmoshpere. Obviously this would not be as efficient for weight purposes, but if you are drag racing, you would just put the minimum amount of water in to make the run. But for daily driving you would just have the equivalant of a second fuel tank, only for water instead. We can talk critical volumes later.
So how to power the turbine? The steam turbine would be fed off of the coolant system, but through a choke so that not all the cooling fluid boils off, just the minimum amount needed to power the turbine. It would be replaced from the reservoir tank. The rest of the fluid would just continue to circulate.
We also discussed the risk of running out of cooling fluid/steam source. You don't want to lose all your accessories, and/or overheat the engine. To prevent excessive fluid loss, the steam choke would close when the system detected the reservoir tank is getting too low. This of course takes out your steam turbine. However this needs to be addressed anyway because how are you going to power your accessories while the engine warms up? Here are our thoughts. Place the steam turbine on a direct belt off of the crank. But have it on a clutch like the AC compressor so that it only runs off the belt when you need it to (engine too cold or out of steam). But as long as all steam systems are operating properly, the clutch would kick out allowing the steam turbine to then generate the power for all the accessories. This would create a slight mechanical inefficiency when the engine is having to power the steam turbine to power the accessories, but you would still get that power back in the long run once the steam turbine kicks in and takes that load off the engine.  

There is more than one way to do this. You could go the Cummins route but its expensive and super critical steam sounds scary but is more efficient. Cyclone also has a steam engine that uses super critical steam. If you heat steam to a certain point it takes on both liquid and gas properties. I am not sure which is best. The Cyclone system only uses a few quarts of deionized water. In my head I would like to get rid of water cooled engines altogether since then you wouldn't have to worry about blowing head gaskets under extreme pressure. If the head and block were one imagine the compression ratios. 40 to 1 ?  Imagine the power and efficiency then.

How about this cheap potential setup. First get a open differential from a vehicle with IFS. Bolt the yoke to the front of the engine's crankshaft. Then connected one of the CV shafts to your electric and or steam engine. Then add a brake to the opposite CV shaft. When you want extra power for your engine just engage the brake and power the extra motor(s).

Still that is why I like the on board hydrogen generator. That way you can get a useful benefit from the waste heat without adding hardware.

Or Cyclone has something they call a APU it is a little blast furnace that runs off of diesel fuel. Fuel is ignited in the center at the optimal temperature. The reason our internal combustion engines run dirty is because the combustion takes place too fast. Your an engineer so remember elementary science oxidation. Why are those equations so simple? Its because the fuel is allowed to take its time and burn the way it wants to. So the APU can be used prior to start up. Or you could add and extra battery for startup.

Anyways our work is cut out for us. Basically all we have to do is combine the internal combustion engine with the external combustion engine. This new engine is called the ETERNAL engine.

We have a big site so sometimes things take a while to load. Like when I write on the forums from home sometimes the links don't work. Maybe thats the problem sucks that you have to put all the work into it again. Sorry.  

FYI. I created a new thread to continue this discussion.  

ETERNAL engine huh? Clever. Sounds like a bad engineering joke. I halfway understand your scheme with the shafts off the crank but I got lost in the acronyms. I am kind of a rookie in the manly motor talk. Unfortunately, I understand how engines work, and can work on them, I just can't sit around with other guys and shoot the ... about engines and all the legends. I couldn't tell you a thing about gas engines, but hey, I guess that is why we are talking about diesels.
Anyway, I don't quite get the theory between. I just reread you last statement and figured out the acronyms, I think. IFS for independent front suspension correct? So are you saying that engaging the brake would disengage the internal engine from the external or engage it? I am not familiar with how an IFS differential works.
Now are you saying that the external engine would add the captured heat energy (NRG) back to the crankshaft via the IFS differential setup? If so that still doesn't answer our question of how to power the accessories before engine gets warm enough. Or what method to use to originally collect the wasted heat. I guess I am getting mixed up in what direction the NRG is going to be flowing through our differential.
It would be neat if Diesel Power's (DPM) website had a sketchpad tool that we could implement for talks like this. I can visualize the setup that you describe, and can imagine how it would all work, but would it fit. I guess it wouldn't be as large as a full IFS, just the same concept. But are we still talking of doing away with the radiator and fan to make this space.

HEY! Brainscheme - even if we cant elimate the radiator, what about a custom radiator mounted in the fender(s). That could also be a place to fit in an intercooler and AC condensor and would still be seperate from the main engine compartment. Perhaps that is too far in the future of the project, but I just thought I would throw it out there before I forgot.