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simple cheap upgrades

 
01 24 valve 01 24 valve
Enthusiast | Posts: 317 | Joined: 11/09
Posted: 11/10/09
02:52 PM

i have a 1998 dodge ram 2500 12 valve cummins turbo diesel and im a young guy dont have all the money to spend in the world and i need some simple cheap upgrades just to give my truck that extra bit of power i would like at least an extra 100hp without having to put a new tranny in or new axles it has a 5 speed standard in it now and every thing is stock what should i do i want it strickly for hauling hay and pulling a horse trailer im sitting at 215hp and 440ftpd torque can you guys help me.  
2001 dodge ram 2500 ext cab short box 5 speed 4 inch down pipe into 5 inch strait pipe exhaust into 6 inch chrome dual aussie stacks, 90hp injectors with 200hp tips, quadzilla adrenaline tuner with monitor , ,  bd lift pump, AFE stage 2 cold air intake, ARP head studs, ATS three piece exhaust manifold with t4 flange,Garrett ta45 turbo southbend dual disc 750hp clutch with 1 3/8" input shaft

red_96 red_96
User | Posts: 226 | Joined: 10/07
Posted: 11/10/09
04:48 PM

I like the TST #8 fuel plate. 230 hp 605 tq.
K&N filter.
Flowmaster exhaust.

tstproducts.com. has more items for your truck.  

Mountainman234 Mountainman234
User | Posts: 82 | Joined: 07/09
Posted: 11/10/09
05:19 PM

Gauges. In one word. You need gauges if your going to tune your truck. the bare minimum is exhaust temperature and boost you can even find these in one gauge if you look around. 12vs can make lots of heat quick even with small mods and you dont want to melt your aluminum pistons trying to get your horses to the fair on time. Also your stock head will take around 45 pounds of manifold pressure before it lifts but your stock turbo only really will handle around 30 pounds before it fails. There are plenty of guys that will tell you that both will do more but this is the highest safe levels i would go to have a reliable truck. Buy gauges and then go nuts.  
I Support GLOBAL WARMING!

MarineOne MarineOne
Addict | Posts: 2036 | Joined: 10/08
Posted: 11/11/09
02:19 AM

You're starting at 215hp.  You want another 100, to make it 315hp.  Please understand I'm not going to be harsh, but trying to be cheap to increase your HP by 50% is not realistic due to what you need to get there.

The first thing you need to find out if you've got a VP-44 injection pump ('98.5 to 2000) or if you have the P-pump (pre-'98.5).  Once you figure this out let us know and we can help you out some more on what you'll need to do for fueling.

In reality, gauges should always be the first mod so you can monitor your engine and you know what it's doing in stock form.  You should really have boost, EGT, and lift pump fuel pressure gauges since you've got an '98 and the 5 speed manual.

Now you need more air.  A good cold air intake (CAI) from AfE, AEM (Brute Force), or S&B are good starting points.  Replace the stock intake manifold with a drilled and tapped version from CFM+, ATS, or S&B so you can use the boost gauge and add water meth injection later on.  Then, replace the stock 3 inch exhaust with a 4 inch (minimum) turbo back kit, or have someone mandrel bend some 4 inch stock for you and install it.  It's a bit cheaper this way, but the install can be a bit harder since it's not a kit and in pieces.

For this next step, you can do it several ways.  You'll need to increase your injector output with a new/rebuilt/built up injector pump, either new nozzles or a completely new injector set, and an upgraded lift pump.  The nozzle is what makes the spray pattern inside the cylinder when it shoots the diesel into the engine, so you need to make sure you have the right nozzles or you can screw up your engine.  Nozzles are cheaper than an injector set, but you should have them tested to make sure the old injectors will work with the new nozzles properly.  If you need new injectors, you could get the 90hp version and be fine with those, but they will cost a couple thousand dollars.  The injector pump is what makes the pressure for the injectors.  If you have a VP-44, consider rebuilding it or getting a hot rod VP-44.  If you've got the P-pump, it's less complex but will require some tinkering.

Finally the lift pump will need to be replaced due to it being a known failure point, and since you need a bit more fuel due to the upgraded injectors and injector pump, is a highly recommended upgrade.



Kris  

2006 Dodge Ram 2500 QC 5.9L - Smarty CR S-06 on SW #5

2008 Dodge Ram 3500 QC 6.7L - H&S MiniMaxx on DPF tune for towing
Titan Fuel Tank
Aero Muffler 4040XL
Nathan AirChime K3LA

01 24 valve 01 24 valve
Enthusiast | Posts: 317 | Joined: 11/09
Posted: 11/11/09
07:14 PM

the truck has a p7100 injection pump its eventually going to have 4 inch into 7 inch dual mitre cut smoke stacks strait piped and i dont want to lose my mileage cause the truck gets great mileage right now and i am getting lots of guages and the i have 4 parts im getting for sure and thats the ats aurora 3000 turbo good for up to 60 psi a under/overdrive split shift kit from gear vendors a bd exhaust brake and a banks wastegate actuator plus i want the truck to roal lots of coals  
2001 dodge ram 2500 ext cab short box 5 speed 4 inch down pipe into 5 inch strait pipe exhaust into 6 inch chrome dual aussie stacks, 90hp injectors with 200hp tips, quadzilla adrenaline tuner with monitor , ,  bd lift pump, AFE stage 2 cold air intake, ARP head studs, ATS three piece exhaust manifold with t4 flange,Garrett ta45 turbo southbend dual disc 750hp clutch with 1 3/8" input shaft

MarineOne MarineOne
Addict | Posts: 2036 | Joined: 10/08
Posted: 11/13/09
12:37 AM

Lots of gauges?  What are you going to be monitoring?

60 psi will require fire ringing the heads and head studs, at a minimum.  In other words, you're going to need a lot of top end engine work because 42 to 45 psi could be the starting point for lifting the head off the block.

So is this truck still going to be a hay hauler, or are you trying to race Corvettes?

Like I said, I'm not going to be harsh but if you don't have alot of money I can't see how you're going to spend $4,000 to $5,000 on a GearVendors unit.




Kris  

2006 Dodge Ram 2500 QC 5.9L - Smarty CR S-06 on SW #5

2008 Dodge Ram 3500 QC 6.7L - H&S MiniMaxx on DPF tune for towing
Titan Fuel Tank
Aero Muffler 4040XL
Nathan AirChime K3LA

01 24 valve 01 24 valve
Enthusiast | Posts: 317 | Joined: 11/09
Posted: 11/13/09
12:12 PM

well the gear vendor split shift kit is getting put in a a year or 2 and its actually only $3000 yes it still hauling hay most of the bigger stuff will be a work in progress as i go along little bit here a little bit there that type of thing first thing i plan on doing is gauges at leat 5 of them how much is the stock turbo good up to like 30psi ? im also putting airbags in the back so my back end doesnt drop so much when i got a heavy load on it is going to have a manual psi control from inside the cab both airbags being independent and that is only going to run me around $250  
2001 dodge ram 2500 ext cab short box 5 speed 4 inch down pipe into 5 inch strait pipe exhaust into 6 inch chrome dual aussie stacks, 90hp injectors with 200hp tips, quadzilla adrenaline tuner with monitor , ,  bd lift pump, AFE stage 2 cold air intake, ARP head studs, ATS three piece exhaust manifold with t4 flange,Garrett ta45 turbo southbend dual disc 750hp clutch with 1 3/8" input shaft

MarineOne MarineOne
Addict | Posts: 2036 | Joined: 10/08
Posted: 11/14/09
12:21 AM

Okay so gauges will run you around $400.  This will be EGT, boost, and fuel (lift pump) pressure with a pillar mount.

I'd recommend a South Bend clutch, I'm not sure on price but expect it to be around $2200.

Then you'll need the fuel plate, prolly the #11, otherwise you'll need the clutch.

You could get your injectors tested and simply add some 90hp tips.  This will save you a few bucks over new injectors.  Tips will be a few hundred bucks versus $1600 to $1800 for new injectors.

The stock turbo should be good to 30 psi, so I don't think you'll need to upgrade it.  I would recommend the aftermarket intake and manifold to help it breathe, and of course you're already going to upgrade the exhaust so no need to go there.


Kris  

2006 Dodge Ram 2500 QC 5.9L - Smarty CR S-06 on SW #5

2008 Dodge Ram 3500 QC 6.7L - H&S MiniMaxx on DPF tune for towing
Titan Fuel Tank
Aero Muffler 4040XL
Nathan AirChime K3LA

01 24 valve 01 24 valve
Enthusiast | Posts: 317 | Joined: 11/09
Posted: 11/14/09
05:42 PM

ok how much would i have to do if i only wanted an extra 50 or 75 horsepowerand amybe increase my torque a little  
2001 dodge ram 2500 ext cab short box 5 speed 4 inch down pipe into 5 inch strait pipe exhaust into 6 inch chrome dual aussie stacks, 90hp injectors with 200hp tips, quadzilla adrenaline tuner with monitor , ,  bd lift pump, AFE stage 2 cold air intake, ARP head studs, ATS three piece exhaust manifold with t4 flange,Garrett ta45 turbo southbend dual disc 750hp clutch with 1 3/8" input shaft

MarineOne MarineOne
Addict | Posts: 2036 | Joined: 10/08
Posted: 11/15/09
02:33 AM

Here's my official warning:  I don't recommend more fueling until you get the gauges.  You need to know what your engine is doing or you could damage it.  Now if you decide to skip gauges its all on you, and an engine rebuild could be somewhere between $6000 and $9000.


A quick and dirty increase in HP/torque would be injector tips or a Smarty Jr.  An injector tip kit should run around the $500 to $800 range for all your injectors.  Keep in mind that the injectors will need more fuel, so you'll need the #11 fuel plate.  I would also recommend you test the injectors before you add the tips to make sure they're working.


Kris  

2006 Dodge Ram 2500 QC 5.9L - Smarty CR S-06 on SW #5

2008 Dodge Ram 3500 QC 6.7L - H&S MiniMaxx on DPF tune for towing
Titan Fuel Tank
Aero Muffler 4040XL
Nathan AirChime K3LA

500HP2500 500HP2500
New User | Posts: 9 | Joined: 11/09
Posted: 11/16/09
07:21 PM

dude dont listen to them. on the 12v engines alot of the up grades are free diy's. you can take your plate out and grind it to how you want it(but remember you cant add it back once you grind it but you can al ways take it away). you can slide the afc housing forward and can crank the starwheel. all of them are free and that gives alot of free power trust me i have done it. you can also pick up a set of 370hp marine injectors for like 300-400$ also you can get a 3000 or 4000 gsk(governing spring kit) cant rember the price but they are not much, what this dose is it lets your truck keep fueling to what ever rpm kit you get instead of the stock 2500 rpm. but if you do this you will have to get some heaver valve springs or you will float and drop your valves. and for your exhaust there are alot of people out there that offer budget exhaust farmboys diesel for example i have there 5in budget kit on my truck. but you will defantly need guages.  all of these upgrades will be no more that 1500 but closer to 1000  
96 2500 4x4 498hp1037ft/lbs

500HP2500 500HP2500
New User | Posts: 9 | Joined: 11/09
Posted: 11/16/09
07:24 PM

by the way marine one you cant put a smarty or any chip in these trucks  
96 2500 4x4 498hp1037ft/lbs

500HP2500 500HP2500
New User | Posts: 9 | Joined: 11/09
Posted: 11/16/09
07:27 PM

all of the free mods i listed will give you a 100hp at least, and the injectors and gsk will give you 120hp at least  
96 2500 4x4 498hp1037ft/lbs

MarineOne MarineOne
Addict | Posts: 2036 | Joined: 10/08
Posted: 11/16/09
10:19 PM

Sorry, I had a Smarty on the brain as I'm getting some stuff for my wife's truck.

While you do post some good info, I won't recommend the things you have because it goes beyond "shade tree" mechanic abilities.  For a couple hundred bucks I recommend buying the fuel plate because you'll always have a backup.  Unless you REALLY know what you're doing, I refuse to recommend grinding on your stock fuel plate, adding a 3000 RPM DSK kit, or "cranking the starwheel" as you put it.

You really need to know what you're doing when you get this deep into a Cummins, and since I don't know what the OP's abilities are I'm not going to recommend something beyond his means or abilities and ruin a good truck .... which is what a GSK kit would do if you don't build the engine for that kind of RPM.

</shaking my head as I walk away from this post>


Kris  

2006 Dodge Ram 2500 QC 5.9L - Smarty CR S-06 on SW #5

2008 Dodge Ram 3500 QC 6.7L - H&S MiniMaxx on DPF tune for towing
Titan Fuel Tank
Aero Muffler 4040XL
Nathan AirChime K3LA

500HP2500 500HP2500
New User | Posts: 9 | Joined: 11/09
Posted: 11/17/09
07:28 AM

dude i know what i am doing when it comes to diesel engines i butil my first engine when i was 12 and sold it for 12000 and it is still running.  i am also a john deere master tech now too and work on multi million dollar machines.  a 3000gsk kit will hold up on a stock enging i put one in my brothers truck 2 years ago and still running fine i also tuned his injection pump with all i listed above and it is still running fine and all the internals in his engine are stock and holding up for two years now.  but i would not recommend doing to a stock truck what is done to mine i have fire rings studs on the top and bottom and a girdle.  but dont call me a shade tree mechanic because i know what i am doing so dont fin call me that  
96 2500 4x4 498hp1037ft/lbs

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