What do you think is best for me?

The lease on my BMW is up next summer and I would love to get into another diesel truck. However, I need some opinions on what I should be looking for. It will be my daily driver (40 or so miles per day at least, unloaded) while occasionally towing my 6k lb Land Cruiser to the trails. I would also (someday) love to get a slide in camper for it. So from my figuring, it would be a combined trailer wieght of 10k lbs (1000 lb tounge weight roughly) and about 3k lbs of camper and stuff.

Requirements:
1) Dependability. Not just the drivetrain, I need a dependable truck.
2) Automatic. My mother borrows my trucks and she can't drive a manual.
3) Extended or Club Cab with back doors. Trying to get a baby in a car seat in a 2 seater sucks.
4) AC, PW, PDL, CC etc. Leather and heated seats would be nice.
5) Single rear wheel. I work in the land of very narrow streets.
6) 4x4. I have to make it to work... No matter the weather.

I'm planning on keeping the truck relatively stock. Maybe a leveling kit, exhaust, intake and programmer.  (However, I'm pretty lazy and the Land Cruiser tends to get my extra money!) Another thing to consider is I was raised in a Chevy family. Because of that, I have a deep rooted hate of Fords. That being said, I'm going to consider them because I'm looking for the right truck FOR ME. With how expensive these things are I could get a newer, nicer Ford and I know it. I just want the best truck, no matter what badge it's wearing. Now here is the kicker, the truck has to be used and it has to be between $15k and $20k. Let's hear what you have to say!  
A Toyota nut looking for a daily/tow rig...

1997 Land Cruiser:  Lifted, locked, cut, 37'd and dented.

Oh, here is a pic of the Land Cruiser for your viewing pleasure:

 
A Toyota nut looking for a daily/tow rig...

1997 Land Cruiser:  Lifted, locked, cut, 37'd and dented.

Don't buy a GM just because your dad did...just get the one you like. Do you run an IFS axle in your Toyota...no I didn't think so...so why would you want one in your tow vehicle? Ford makes a great truck, just stay away from the 6.0 or your going to get alot of "I told you so" from your dad. Nothing wrong with the Dodge...ya sure they were junk in 1970's and 80's but it's not 1970 anymore. Go look at all three and I'm sure you'll make the right decision.  
2002 Dodge Ram 6 SPD Fass pump, afe cold air, mbrp 4" ss exhaust, 275hp RV injectors, edge ez, isspro gauges, South Bend clutch, track bar updated to 03-07 style, dss steering stabilizer system, 285 Cooper Discover

"If it doesn't have tit's a trigger or a throttle I'm pretty much not interested!"

For the price range you're talking about, and the attributes you want, I'd say an '05 Dodge Cummins would be a good choice. 2500 Quad Cab.  

I recommend a setup like mine.  I've got an '08 QC longbed and put some air springs under it for towing a 26 foot RV/toyhauler.  For as much weight as you're pulling, I'm gonna have to say get the manual and buy your Mom an S-10.

The biggest reasons for the 3500 are:

Slide in camper.
1000 pound tongue weight.
10k towing/3k in camper stuff.

If you lost the slide in camper then a 2500 would be fine, but because they are so top heavy and safety takes first priority you'll need the 3500.


Kris  
2006 Dodge Ram 2500 QC 5.9L - No Mods Yet
2008 Dodge Ram 3500 QC 6.7L - Titan Fuel Tank Owner

I like the 02 F-350's. Hands down best interior, strong running 7.3, dependable automatic trans. Just saying... Drive one...  
Forged Rods, Tuning by Diesel Innovations, PowerStrokeNation.com L.P.C. President.
Veteran Combat Medic,

for a good motor stock powerand torque, along with good mileage get a ctd. interior comfort and so so mileage get the gm or ford  
I burn more diesel and run more miles in a week the most of you people do in a month. ctds that have been used 97 3500, 98.5 3500, 98.5 3500,01 3500, 03 3500. those that are being used 06 3500, 07 3500. and yea these trucks earn their living

BCRAM:
Don't buy a GM just because your dad did...just get the one you like. Do you run an IFS axle in your Toyota...no I didn't think so...so why would you want one in your tow vehicle? Ford makes a great truck, just stay away from the 6.0 or your going to get alot of "I told you so" from your dad. Nothing wrong with the Dodge...ya sure they were junk in 1970's and 80's but it's not 1970 anymore. Go look at all three and I'm sure you'll make the right decision.

I don't run IFS in my Toyota, but I expect something different from my Toyota!  And after all that I have read on the 6.0l, that will not be on my list! LOL  
A Toyota nut looking for a daily/tow rig...

1997 Land Cruiser:  Lifted, locked, cut, 37'd and dented.

MarineOne:
I recommend a setup like mine.  I've got an '08 QC longbed and put some air springs under it for towing a 26 foot RV/toyhauler.  For as much weight as you're pulling, I'm gonna have to say get the manual and buy your Mom an S-10.

The biggest reasons for the 3500 are:

Slide in camper.
1000 pound tongue weight.
10k towing/3k in camper stuff.

If you lost the slide in camper then a 2500 would be fine, but because they are so top heavy and safety takes first priority you'll need the 3500.


Kris

Thanks, Kris.  One question:  Given that the only difference between the 2500 and the 3500 is the rear spring pack, wouldn't a 2500 with air bags handle the same as a 3500 with air bags when loaded?

Also, my mother would be pitching in with the truck (the reason for the auto).  If I was to get a manual, the price I can afford drops to between $10k and $15k...  
A Toyota nut looking for a daily/tow rig...

1997 Land Cruiser:  Lifted, locked, cut, 37'd and dented.

Another question for the masses, what mileage should I use as a cap when looking for a truck?  Under 100k?  150k?  Remember that my truck will be an unloaded daily driver 95% of the time...  
A Toyota nut looking for a daily/tow rig...

1997 Land Cruiser:  Lifted, locked, cut, 37'd and dented.

Generally-speaking, the lower mileage, the better, but you could probably still get a pretty decent rig with around 150k miles on it.  

Just recently helped my little bro find a pristine 158K F-250 for under 11G's!  
Forged Rods, Tuning by Diesel Innovations, PowerStrokeNation.com L.P.C. President.
Veteran Combat Medic,

One thing that was brought up to me from a buddy of mine is the Cummins would be a lot easier for me to work on.  I am mechanically inclined, but I have had no training and I've never played with diesel.  That is something that is appealing...  
A Toyota nut looking for a daily/tow rig...

1997 Land Cruiser:  Lifted, locked, cut, 37'd and dented.

Thanks, Kris.  One question:  Given that the only difference between the 2500 and the 3500 is the rear spring pack, wouldn't a 2500 with air bags handle the same as a 3500 with air bags when loaded?


You only lose the coiled suspension springs, not the leaf springs or the shocks.  This can make it an "at home" install if you wanted to DIY.

And no, the rated bed carrying weight of the 2500 is 900 pounds less than that of the 3500.  You're going to need this if you really want to use that slide in camper.

There are a ton of late model used trucks out there with under 150k miles that still are fantastic trucks.  I let my '03 go on a trade-in for my '08 and it had almost 90k on it.  It drove as well as my '06 and '08.



Kris  
2006 Dodge Ram 2500 QC 5.9L - No Mods Yet
2008 Dodge Ram 3500 QC 6.7L - Titan Fuel Tank Owner

Okay Kris, you confused me... What coil spring would I be loosing?!?  I'm talking about Air-Ride or Firestone "helper" air-bags on the rear.

I realize that the rating is different between the 2500 and the 3500 due to the spring pack but with the helper springs on the back, wouldn't that make the capacity the same?

I'm only asking because it seems like 80% of the trucks in my area are 3/4 tons.  
A Toyota nut looking for a daily/tow rig...

1997 Land Cruiser:  Lifted, locked, cut, 37'd and dented.