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AUTOMATIC OR MANUAL TRANSMISSION?

  
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AUTOMATIC OR MANUAL TRANSMISSION?

 
BAMABUDFAN BAMABUDFAN
New User | Posts: 2 | Joined: 12/09
Posted: 12/06/09
09:59 PM

I AM new to diesel trucks but within next 6 months plan on buying truck and 38+ foot 5th wheel rv/toyhauler and want something that will pull without trans/ engine problems right off the bat any problems with the auto or manual transmission for long term towing i need to consider/ thanks  

brokendiesel brokendiesel
New User | Posts: 21 | Joined: 12/09
Posted: 12/06/09
10:07 PM

What years are you looking at?  

BAMABUDFAN BAMABUDFAN
New User | Posts: 2 | Joined: 12/09
Posted: 12/07/09
11:46 AM

2007-2010  Dodge 3500 if nessasary or 2500  

brokendiesel brokendiesel
New User | Posts: 21 | Joined: 12/09
Posted: 12/07/09
12:51 PM

If it were me I would go with the manual because i prefer 3 pedals to 2 but in reality its all personal preference. The auto and the manual can both be built to handle serious power.I have two friends, one has an 6 speed 07 and one has an auto 08. Both of them love their truck the way it is and constantly argue which setup is better. As for years, try to go for a none dpf model if you can, I have heard they are having a lot of engine problems, I believe they especially like to eat turbos. I know my friend who has the 08 has only 4000 miles on the truck and has already had it to the dealership to replace the dpf, cat, turbo and egr system all under warranty of coarse. My last suggestion would be if its going to be a daily drive go with a single rear wheel and if its a dedicated tow rig then get a dually which is a serious tow rig. But in reality, get what ever you want, its your truck, you'll be driving it.  

01 24 valve 01 24 valve
Enthusiast | Posts: 317 | Joined: 11/09
Posted: 12/07/09
02:29 PM

i would deffently go with the manual with a dodge considering there the only truck company that still make standard trannys for trruck duramax has th allison automatic and ford has been auto for awhile now but if your buying brand new or even used make sure it doesnt have the 4:85 gears in it you can only do 110 km and hour before you are redlining it if you have a diesel manual is the way to go and if the truck does have 4:85 gears then consider buying a under/overdrive split shift kit from gear vendors its about $3000 but will give you better mileage lower rpms and it takes numerous amounts of pressure off your engine it would make a 6 speed into a 12 speed each gear has a half like 1 then 1.5 then 2 ext. its just a a box that mounts oon to the stick shift and you can use it only when you want theres a switch that you turn on when you want to use it and if you dont and your in the city then turn it off it gives you really low gears while also having high gears  
2001 dodge ram 2500 ext cab short box 5 speed 4 inch down pipe into 5 inch strait pipe exhaust into 6 inch chrome dual aussie stacks, 90hp injectors with 200hp tips, quadzilla adrenaline tuner with monitor , ,  bd lift pump, AFE stage 2 cold air intake, ARP head studs, ATS three piece exhaust manifold with t4 flange,Garrett ta45 turbo southbend dual disc 750hp clutch with 1 3/8" input shaft

Mike McGlothlin Mike McGlothlin
Moderator | Posts: 1007 | Joined: 06/08
Posted: 12/07/09
08:49 PM

I'd go with an ’03 to ’07 5.9L with the six-speed manual. As far as pulling goes, you just can't beat a standard shift transmission, and the G56 units are very durable behind a stock engine, as is the stock clutch. I wouldn't go adding much power by way of a programmer though, as the common-rail 5.9's can slip the clutch in 5th and 6th gear with nothing more than a hot tuner involved.

In addition, with all 5.9L-equipped Rams, the majority of what manufacturers call "Drivetrain Matching" is done with the Cummins/manual transmission combo. This helps explain why the manual seems so much better suited behind the Cummins than an automatic.

And, if you plan to tow that kind of a trailer the Cummins will never blink an eye, and the transmission should never skip a beat.  
Mike McGlothlin

spencer.adams spencer.adams
New User | Posts: 15 | Joined: 02/11
Posted: 02/13/11
08:50 PM

I'm also new to the diesel truck world and I plan on buying a 06 or 07 Ram 2500 or 3500 with the 5.9.  I plan to use the truck for everyday driving and towing a 5th wheel.  I read some blogs about standard vs automatic.  What are the advantages for both and what are the main differences between the 2500 and the 3500?  Both are 5.9 and the same transmissions right?  Do they have different gears?  What about fuel mileage?  Is it that much of a difference between the 2500 and the 3500?  Thanks

Spence  

01 24 valve 01 24 valve
Enthusiast | Posts: 317 | Joined: 11/09
Posted: 02/13/11
11:07 PM

well there isnt much difference at all in the 2500 and the 3500 i would chose a manual because it will last longer and its tougher fuel mileage usually will be better with a standard and you will get so much more out of your truck if you buy the standard you just have that extra grunt of power from that cummins if you get the standard  
2001 dodge ram 2500 ext cab short box 5 speed 4 inch down pipe into 5 inch strait pipe exhaust into 6 inch chrome dual aussie stacks, 90hp injectors with 200hp tips, quadzilla adrenaline tuner with monitor , ,  bd lift pump, AFE stage 2 cold air intake, ARP head studs, ATS three piece exhaust manifold with t4 flange,Garrett ta45 turbo southbend dual disc 750hp clutch with 1 3/8" input shaft

spencer.adams spencer.adams
New User | Posts: 15 | Joined: 02/11
Posted: 02/14/11
02:59 AM

Thanks.  Is the fuel mileage the different netween the manual and automatic?  If I choose to go with the 3500 does the DRW make that much of a difference on fuel mileage? Cool  

01 24 valve 01 24 valve
Enthusiast | Posts: 317 | Joined: 11/09
Posted: 02/14/11
06:39 PM

yes having the manual will be better on fuel by far and no having a drw shouldnt have to much of an impact on it i mean my dad has an 05 3500 automatic and before he put a chip in it he was getting 22mpg now around 17 -18 highway with the chip now my dads friend had an 04 3500 SRW 6 speed standard and got 31mpg with the banks six gun chip but thats with it turned off hope that helps you out  
2001 dodge ram 2500 ext cab short box 5 speed 4 inch down pipe into 5 inch strait pipe exhaust into 6 inch chrome dual aussie stacks, 90hp injectors with 200hp tips, quadzilla adrenaline tuner with monitor , ,  bd lift pump, AFE stage 2 cold air intake, ARP head studs, ATS three piece exhaust manifold with t4 flange,Garrett ta45 turbo southbend dual disc 750hp clutch with 1 3/8" input shaft

White_Lightning White_Lightning
Guru | Posts: 937 | Joined: 07/09
Posted: 02/14/11
08:33 PM

I would go with a manual as well, it handles the torque better and gives you control of the shift points. You won't have to worry about overheating like the auto, and less electronics to go wrong. You can get both the 2500 or 3500 with either 3.73 or 4.10 axle gears, I would try to find a rig with 3.73's for the better mileage because you can always shift down if the load is too much. The 2500 SRW to the 3500 SRW, the major difference will be the suspension. Going to the DRW will cost you about .5 to 1mpg, but will be more stable towing. Putting a free flow exhaust and a chip designed for mileage and towing will help economy. I'm gonna call BS on any full size pickup getting 31mpg without spraying nitrous/propane/CNG.  
Logan
1995 12 valve Cummins 6.0L, 5 speed, 4x4, 600hp Valair Clutch. Air Dog 4GHD lift pump, no fuel plate, 2095 rack plug, 024 DV's, pump benched at 440cc, SDX 5x.014 injectors, Hamilton 181/210 cam and HD pushrods, Stage 2 Port job, 5 angle valve job, 60lb valve springs, ARP studs, O-ringed head, .020" over head gasket, coated pistons, balanced bottom end, Fluidampr, PDI exhaust manifold, homemade intake manifold, 63/68/0.80 over 80/92/1.32 compound turbos.

01 24 valve 01 24 valve
Enthusiast | Posts: 317 | Joined: 11/09
Posted: 02/14/11
08:38 PM

well thats wat he was getting might have been 29 to 31 not towing but i seen it myself this truck he owned before he rolled it was just one of those trucks if you know what i mean was amazing at everything did wonders its the kind you'll talk about for ever lol the trucks empty fuel light came on when we were leaving for havre montana which is about 200km one way and he put a couple drops in at a nearby farm but they were all out of fuel to and made it there picked up 2 pallets of salt which weighs around 2500lbs together and made it bac still on empty  
2001 dodge ram 2500 ext cab short box 5 speed 4 inch down pipe into 5 inch strait pipe exhaust into 6 inch chrome dual aussie stacks, 90hp injectors with 200hp tips, quadzilla adrenaline tuner with monitor , ,  bd lift pump, AFE stage 2 cold air intake, ARP head studs, ATS three piece exhaust manifold with t4 flange,Garrett ta45 turbo southbend dual disc 750hp clutch with 1 3/8" input shaft

MarineOne MarineOne
Addict | Posts: 2036 | Joined: 10/08
Posted: 02/15/11
04:05 AM

I own a 31 foot Class IV toyhauler, and I've got a manual to pull it.

I tried it with my '03 3500, but I didn't want to invest alot into an automatic to be able to tow a 6800 pound (empty) rig faster than 52 MPH, which is where she'd top out at.  It got traded in for my '08 3500 SRW, and it's like night and day.  Cruising down the highway at 65 MPH, I dropped it into 5th and stuck my right foot into it, upshifted and was doing 82 MPH before I looked down at the speedo.

I thought about getting the DRW, but its got a bit of a wide butt for also doubling as my daily driver.  You will lose some mileage with the dually because of the extra rolling resistance and rolling mass of 2 additional tires, but if you need the stability it will be there for you ..... you'll just need to decide if that's something you need (notice I didn't say "want").



Kris  

2006 Dodge Ram 2500 QC 5.9L - Smarty CR S-06 on SW #5

2008 Dodge Ram 3500 QC 6.7L - H&S MiniMaxx on DPF tune for towing
Titan Fuel Tank
Aero Muffler 4040XL
Nathan AirChime K3LA

DodgeDiesel_01 DodgeDiesel_01
New User | Posts: 8 | Joined: 02/11
Posted: 02/15/11
09:02 AM

Hands down IMHO go with the manual.  When I want to downshift its all mechanics not electronics that control shifting.  Just read about the prblems people have with the sensors in their automatics causing rough/improper shifting.  There is slippage with a torque converter and that creates heat which means a loss of energy --> use of fuel --> decrease in fuel milage.  Yes you may have to change a clutch depending on how you drive, but that is still easy to diagnose and no more expencive/difficult to replace than a torque converter or get an auto trans rebuilt because the bands are worn out.  I don't even use my clutch for everyday driving, so that can cut down on a lot of wear to the clutch.  I had 182,000 on my manual trans and I am not "nice" to it by any means (mudding/hooking bumpers/powershifting/multi-gear burnouts/26,000+ # loads) and I only now had to rebuild it because I chipped 3rd gear.  The shafts and integrity of the trans were still very solid.  I just feel like I have a lot more control over my rig and the trailer with a clutch and a stick.  I would also highly recommend looking into an engine brake.  The under/overdrive kit from gear vendors is also a great idea if you are planning on doing a lot of pulling especially in hills/mountains.  The gas milage is a lot better and it is a lot easier to find the "right" gear in any driving situation.  If the only reason for not getting a manual is becuse you don't like shifting... it is in your best intrest to get over it.  I have not heard a compelling arguement for why an auto is better for pulling.  Even an "auto stick" type or electronic shift still depends on electronics and sensors for shifting.  Additionally, if you lose trans fluid you are not going anywhere with an auto.  With a manual if you have to, it is gear driven... you may do more damage(syncros etc...) but you will still be able to move.  Plus you are less likely to have leaks with a manual because there are no cooler lines because a manual doesn't need them.  If for some reason your starter takes a crap or the batteries get drained... a slight hill is all you need to get your truck started.  On a side note... I suggest going with a manual shift transfer case for your 4x4 if you go that route as well.  Once again... electronics go bad long before a mechanical device does and is more dificult to diagnose/fix.  
'01 Dodge Ram 2500
24v - 5.9L Diesel
NV4500 5-speed
4x4
Extended cab, Long Bed

'96 Dodge Ram 2500
V-10
Automatic
4x4
Reg cab, Long Bed

Future Veterinarian

01 24 valve 01 24 valve
Enthusiast | Posts: 317 | Joined: 11/09
Posted: 02/15/11
06:56 PM

id say that about covers it lol  
2001 dodge ram 2500 ext cab short box 5 speed 4 inch down pipe into 5 inch strait pipe exhaust into 6 inch chrome dual aussie stacks, 90hp injectors with 200hp tips, quadzilla adrenaline tuner with monitor , ,  bd lift pump, AFE stage 2 cold air intake, ARP head studs, ATS three piece exhaust manifold with t4 flange,Garrett ta45 turbo southbend dual disc 750hp clutch with 1 3/8" input shaft