Forever Endeavor

This is the build thread for my Cummins powered 91 dodge W250 4x4 pick up.
She has 226XXX miles
Included upgrades (when i bought her):
Denny T fuel pin
Goerend torque converter
4" exhaust (turbo back)
Holset HX35 turbo
Pyro and egt guages
K&N style air filter
Custom bumpers
..................
New upgrades:
Converted to 4 wheel disc
New bearings,seals,pads,fluids both axles
New rear wheel studs.
TPS delete kit (I now have overdrive)
Valve cover gaskets
.................

I will post updates and pics here.
I upload all build pics (Via mobile) to my blog ottenbuilt.blogspot.com


 
If you don't stand for something you will fall for anything

Valve cover gaskets + paint





 
If you don't stand for something you will fall for anything

Brakes




 
If you don't stand for something you will fall for anything

I'm diggin the green valve covers! Looks like she could use a little body work though.  
Logan
1995 12 valve Cummins 6.0L, 5 speed, 4x4, 600hp Valair Clutch. Air Dog 150, no fuel plate, benched pump, SDX 5x.014 injectors, Hamilton 181/210 cam and HD pushrods, Stage 2 Port job, 5 angle valve job, 60lb valve springs, ARP studs, O-ringed head, .020" head gasket, coated pistons, balanced bottom end, Fluidampr, PDI exhaust manifold, homemade intake manifold, 63/68/0.80 over 80/92/1.32 compound turbos.

Thanks man! Yea green is my thing. She used to be a work truck so she is a little ruff around the edges. Blinker housing and new blinker lenses as well as a license plate light are on the "to do list".  
If you don't stand for something you will fall for anything

If any one wants a drum brake set up for a Dana 70, hit me up. $50 for all
Includes brand new pads.




 
If you don't stand for something you will fall for anything

I got a potentiometer TPS (throttle position sensor) delete kit from DNR customs. They have it set up where you can use your existing TPS plug but I opted for solder and heat shrink.
It works killer! you set at what speed over drive kicks in, fully adjustable with a knob inside the cab, well worth the $42

 
If you don't stand for something you will fall for anything

Thanks for starting the build thread!  Let me know if you have any VE questions  
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1989 Dodge D250 "Project Rust Bucket" 14mm Scheid VE pump, 5x25s, 47RH by J&H Performance, 62mm S300, dual wastegates, ARP studs, o-ringed head, NX two stage, 972rwhp on two guns.

1995 Dodge 4x4 "Project Triple Threat" Goerend Trans, Secret squirrel stuff by Garmon's 433/842

Thanks man! I am trying to fix all of the problems and get caught up on the maintenance. This is my first cummins engine so feel free to chime in especially if you see me making any catastrophic mistakes.  
If you don't stand for something you will fall for anything

Ole blue got some fresh oil, oil filter and grease for every fitting on the front end.  
If you don't stand for something you will fall for anything

The tail gate wouldn't open. I took it all apart found the problem (a bent latch mechanism), straitened it out and put it all back together. Good as new!




 
If you don't stand for something you will fall for anything

I pulled the diff covers, changed the oil and gaskets on both diffs. Good thing I did there was water in the oil in the front diff and the rear was very dirty.

















 
If you don't stand for something you will fall for anything

My truck wouldn't start the other day. I would let the glow plugs charge then tried to start it. It would turn over very slow like the battery was dead. I took the battery in and had it tested and they said it had "dead cells" and it was toast. I purchased a new battery same size (a big ass marine battery). Let the glow plugs charge then try to start it and it still turned over very slow like the battery was dead and would not start. I am going to pull my starter off and take it in for testing?
Any ideas on what what the problem is?  
If you don't stand for something you will fall for anything

A) Cummins don't have glow plugs, we have grid heaters. B) I would look at connections and see if there is any corrosion. Check continuity through the cable going from the battery to the starter. If those seem fine, then I'd have the starter tested.  
Logan
1995 12 valve Cummins 6.0L, 5 speed, 4x4, 600hp Valair Clutch. Air Dog 150, no fuel plate, benched pump, SDX 5x.014 injectors, Hamilton 181/210 cam and HD pushrods, Stage 2 Port job, 5 angle valve job, 60lb valve springs, ARP studs, O-ringed head, .020" head gasket, coated pistons, balanced bottom end, Fluidampr, PDI exhaust manifold, homemade intake manifold, 63/68/0.80 over 80/92/1.32 compound turbos.

Thanks man I appreciate the advice. I am still learning about the cummins 12 valve, I am accustom to the lead brick GM 6.2 in my hummer project. I don't have much for tools including a voltmeter or anything yet but the cable seemed in good shape from end to end.  
If you don't stand for something you will fall for anything